As the preeminent global capital of excellence in pastry, it’s not surprising that Paris is home to a culinary concept shop that features the work of such pedigreed pastry chefs as Philippe Conticini, Cyril Lignac, and Pierre Hermé.
What is surprising, however, is that it only happened in 2016, as an extension of the leading pastry-focused French magazine Fou de Pâtisserie. Founders Julie Mathieu and Muriel Tallandier nurtured relationships with the city’s leading talents in pastry and chocolate, persuading them that there was not only a value but a need for a space that brought them all together under one roof in the center of the city.
The selection at Fou de Pâtisserie’s brick and mortar is short but sharp and rotates monthly, with a few elusive items that keep locals coming back again and again. It’s the only place to get Pierre Hermé’s divine Ispahan croissants outside of his Left Bank boutique on (they’re delivered fresh on Saturdays), and one of the only spots to try chocolates made by Fabrice Gillotte, the Dijon-based winner of the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France competition for artisans.
Fou de Pâtisserie is an innovative one-stop shop that takes the indecision out of indulgence. Located on the cobblestone market street rue Montorgueil, the shop is at home amid leading cheesemongers, greengrocers, bakeries, and casual bistros.
One of the shop’s bestsellers is Cyril Lignac’s L’Equinoxe, a confection composed of a light vanilla cream, a salted caramel center, and a crunchy, spiced Speculoos cookie crust.
New to the selection are the award-winning dark chocolate éclairs by Carl Marletti, whose shop is based in the Latin Quarter. This seasonal éclair is made with chestnut and blackberry.
Pâtisserie Acide’s Jonathan Blot gussied up the signature Paris-Brest pastry, created in 1891 in homage to the cycling race, with dried lime and praline cola.
The clementine tart by Hugues Pouget of Hugo & Victor is a seasonal treat topped with fresh clementine and a dollop of cream.
Jonathan Blot’s gluten-free ricotta mousse cheesecake quickly became a favorite when it was added to the shop’s selection. The rounded form never changes, but the flavors inside evolve with the seasons. This one is yuzu and honey.
Fou features a tart of the month. This one, created by Nicolas Bacheyre of Un Dimanche à Paris, has an almond-hazelnut shortbread crust, ginger ganache, candied banana and yuzu, and a few cubes of candied ginger as a finishing touch.
Opposite the pastry display case is a wall of beautifully packaged sweets and gifts: bon bons from Fabrice Gillotte, stuffed chocolates from Jérôme de Oliveira of Cannes (another pastry champion), shortbread cookies from Gilles Marchal, honey from Hédène, candied fruits from Jacques Genin, and others. All ready to be wrapped up now and enjoyed later.
But not too much later.
Photos by Joann Pai.